wed 12/12/07, Conditions ~ Amb temp 21'c, Hot full summer midday sun, UV factor 11.

After yesterdays experiment with the rosin mix and it went clear after only15 minutes in the D tank, I decided that Today I would try Two more experiments, and discovered several different things about the phsautotype using traditional lavender oil (tp) verses modern rosin (mrp).

Firstly they are two very different beasts.

A Rosin mix develops LIGHTNING fast in Kerosene vapour , Lavender oil is much slower.

My first experiment today was to coat one half of a plate with lavender oil the other half with rosin, the glass plate is hard to photograph but you should be able to see the lavender oil is on the left and the rosin is on the right, The rosin is a much denser coating, both are 1% w/v in 95% denatured alcohol, both coatings were not very even, just brushed on.

I placed a 20mm wide  stick across the plate and left it in direct midday sun for 1 hr and 10 minutes, the black sheet under the plate is a piece of "wet and dry", to TRY and stop UV reflections from getting into the back of the plate.

I left it in the D tank for "60 seconds" and the unexposed rosin mix had already cleared and the rest was disappearing, the lavender oil coating was just showing signs of starting to clear

  you can see the negative image of two lady's in a wedding dress.

The second experiment was to try another rosin contact print, the rosin coating was not all that even, but I exposed it for 1 hr and 10 minutes in full hot summer midday sun, the negative is in direct contact with the glass plate.

                1,3,4 are best

The Plate was in the D tank for "Two Minutes" and the coating had almost completely cleared, you can just see a faint image of the two lady's in a wedding dress,  its hard to photograph, it looks much better with the human eye.

The process using rosin is lightning fast to develop, I had 100 ml of household kerosene in the D tank, looks like I need to find something a lot slower.